Kaix
07-27-2006, 02:26 PM
UNDERSTANDING BASIC WATER CHEMISTRY – pH
pH is the measurement of the water acidity or alkalinity. 4 is acidic and 8 is alkaline. 7.0 is neutral. Normally, water becomes acidic overtime because of fish waste and decaying matter - like food. pH will become alkaline overtime, if you use marine sand, crush corals, shells, corals, marble chips, etc., in your tank of filter systems. Best to keep pH at 6.8 to 7.2. Do not change pH more than 0.2 points at any one time. Changes should be gradual and over time of after a few hours.
In Singapore context, if your pH is too far extreme, you simply change water. Our tapwater pH and hardness is moderate and is suitable for most freshwater fishes. For the average hobbyist, do not waste money buying the test kits. Test kits usually have a shelf life of only 6 months to 1 year.
pH meters have a longer life span but you must calibrate it occasionally to get accurate readings. Most low end meters, normally needs just one "Calibration Solution" of pH 7.0. Rinse the meter sensor (end tip) first in running tap water and flick gently dry. Insert into the pH 7.0 solution and calibrate as necessary. Some more expensive models will require a calibration of 2 or 3 points, pH 4.0 and 7.0 or pH 10 and 7.0.
For freshwater, pH meters are not essential as you can always just change water. However, if your setup is for marine, or you have a very large tank/pond where changing water is problematic, it is advisable to get one. If you take proper care, the meters will normally last about one to two years.
In normal circumstances, the tank water gets more acidic with time. Even for marine tanks. Use Sodium Bi-carbonate or Baking Soda, (available at all supermarkets) to make your water more alkaline. Remember not to overdo it -- pH must not fall or rise too fast. To make it more acidic, you will have to use acid like battery water, HCL or Sulphuric Acid. Remember that all these are dangerous to handle and not easy to obtain.
In olden times, when people build a cement pond, they normally "cure" it by soaking pineapple skins or discards in the pond for a week or two. Well, if you can get some pineapple skin and soak it for a few days, you can try if it works to make your water more acidic. If you are keeping tetras, discus species, etc., you could make use of the peatwater or "blackwater" extract to make your water more conducive for your fishes.
In a pond set-up, a new pond made from cement, or tiled tends to be more alkaline resulting in extreme pH due to the calcium carbonate. You can use pineapple skin and discards as mentioned to cure it or use get someone to fiber-glass coat it.
Although in freshwater set-up, doing pH, Nitrite, or Ammonia test is non-essential, in a marine set-up many people will tell you how important such tests are. DO NOT listen to them. If you like doing tests, by all means do so. However, do not be mistaken that YOU MUST DO SUCH TESTS.
Only the pH is most important. As mentioned earlier, your ammonia and nitrite levels are related to your biological filtration and your pH. If your pH is at a constant low, your Ammonia and Nitrite levels will also be present. Under normal circumstances, your Ammonia and Nitrite levels should show no readings. A high NITRATE LEVEL will mean that your bacteria is doing well and they have plenty to feed on. When making water changes, both freshwater and Marine, ALWAYS change from the bottom of the lowest point of the tank. This will remove the nitrates that have built up. Remember: if your pH is very low, your ammonia levels tend to be high.
pH Summary
pH 4.0 is Acidic
pH 7.0 is Neutral
pH 9.0 is Alkaline
Normal pH range is between 6.8 to 7.2.
pH changes must be gradual and not more than 0.2 point at any one time.
pH is the measurement of the water acidity or alkalinity. 4 is acidic and 8 is alkaline. 7.0 is neutral. Normally, water becomes acidic overtime because of fish waste and decaying matter - like food. pH will become alkaline overtime, if you use marine sand, crush corals, shells, corals, marble chips, etc., in your tank of filter systems. Best to keep pH at 6.8 to 7.2. Do not change pH more than 0.2 points at any one time. Changes should be gradual and over time of after a few hours.
In Singapore context, if your pH is too far extreme, you simply change water. Our tapwater pH and hardness is moderate and is suitable for most freshwater fishes. For the average hobbyist, do not waste money buying the test kits. Test kits usually have a shelf life of only 6 months to 1 year.
pH meters have a longer life span but you must calibrate it occasionally to get accurate readings. Most low end meters, normally needs just one "Calibration Solution" of pH 7.0. Rinse the meter sensor (end tip) first in running tap water and flick gently dry. Insert into the pH 7.0 solution and calibrate as necessary. Some more expensive models will require a calibration of 2 or 3 points, pH 4.0 and 7.0 or pH 10 and 7.0.
For freshwater, pH meters are not essential as you can always just change water. However, if your setup is for marine, or you have a very large tank/pond where changing water is problematic, it is advisable to get one. If you take proper care, the meters will normally last about one to two years.
In normal circumstances, the tank water gets more acidic with time. Even for marine tanks. Use Sodium Bi-carbonate or Baking Soda, (available at all supermarkets) to make your water more alkaline. Remember not to overdo it -- pH must not fall or rise too fast. To make it more acidic, you will have to use acid like battery water, HCL or Sulphuric Acid. Remember that all these are dangerous to handle and not easy to obtain.
In olden times, when people build a cement pond, they normally "cure" it by soaking pineapple skins or discards in the pond for a week or two. Well, if you can get some pineapple skin and soak it for a few days, you can try if it works to make your water more acidic. If you are keeping tetras, discus species, etc., you could make use of the peatwater or "blackwater" extract to make your water more conducive for your fishes.
In a pond set-up, a new pond made from cement, or tiled tends to be more alkaline resulting in extreme pH due to the calcium carbonate. You can use pineapple skin and discards as mentioned to cure it or use get someone to fiber-glass coat it.
Although in freshwater set-up, doing pH, Nitrite, or Ammonia test is non-essential, in a marine set-up many people will tell you how important such tests are. DO NOT listen to them. If you like doing tests, by all means do so. However, do not be mistaken that YOU MUST DO SUCH TESTS.
Only the pH is most important. As mentioned earlier, your ammonia and nitrite levels are related to your biological filtration and your pH. If your pH is at a constant low, your Ammonia and Nitrite levels will also be present. Under normal circumstances, your Ammonia and Nitrite levels should show no readings. A high NITRATE LEVEL will mean that your bacteria is doing well and they have plenty to feed on. When making water changes, both freshwater and Marine, ALWAYS change from the bottom of the lowest point of the tank. This will remove the nitrates that have built up. Remember: if your pH is very low, your ammonia levels tend to be high.
pH Summary
pH 4.0 is Acidic
pH 7.0 is Neutral
pH 9.0 is Alkaline
Normal pH range is between 6.8 to 7.2.
pH changes must be gradual and not more than 0.2 point at any one time.